Problems in hatching eggs? - OEGB Int'l Society

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Problems in hatching eggs?

scratchscratch Mannsville, Oklahoma
edited March 2012 in Madder than a Wet Hen
I am having a little bit of difficulty hatching some of my birds. It seems to be worse in my BBreds. They start out in the cycle, developing the blood veins and it looks as if the chicks start to develope and then they just seem to die. Has anyone else experienced this problem?
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Comments

  • cockofthewalkcockofthewalk Mead, Oklahoma
    I wouldn't have a clue Ernie, it could be one of several things. We need to get more experts reading and posting on here, so you can get some help.
  • edited March 2012
    On the dying embryos there are some things that are critical. If you have a good thermometer that is precise and can determine your humidity and your incubator is clean with clean eggs going into it that are from healthy stock this should not be happening. If all of these factors are in place and you are having the problem I would suspect bacterial infections in the eggs. Usually what is found if there is an abundant amout of these type deaths is a thermometer problem or humidity is too high.
    I am no expert but I keep my incubator in a constant temperature room and I have determined the Spot check thermometer at Smith Poultry is the most accurate I can find. I found out that the thermometers I was using was as much as 5 degrees off. some of them was to the high side so I was cooking eggs at 104 degrees. They fried on me. lol
    If you are sure of all these factors being correct then I am at a loss.
    The only other thing that might contribute is the Nutritional value your chickens are receiving. If the hens are healthy and the eggs are healthy you should be able to hatch as normal. There are some products you can spray directly on your eggs to sanitize them. I use Oxine and (I also use it in my poultry drinking water). you mix a sollution and spray it directly on the eggs. Also make sure the air flow is ok and that you are getting good circulation.
    I am not sure this will help but for what it is worth.
  • scratchscratch Mannsville, Oklahoma
    Bill only a few of my bbs are doing that? My problem last week was I had fully developed birds that failed to come out of the shell? One finally came out on like day 23 but he was rye necked and I had to dispose of him. I think it is either humidity or temp?
  • Hatching late is a sign of low temp. This spot checker from Smith is supposed to be accurate to like 1/10th degree. might want to check one out. I'm sure there are others but this one has been great for me.
  • scratchscratch Mannsville, Oklahoma
    Thanks I will do that.'
  • I use a hygrometer/thermometer from Smith in by machines. I have had not trouble with them accuracy wise. My machines are in a climate controlled building so maintaining the correct humidity and temp are relatively easy. I have found that humidity is the biggest factor in me getting good hatches. There is a really good article online from a university website that gives you a good list of poor hatching causes. If you break out your unhatched eggs, you can tell a lot about what happened while they were incubating. As Bill mentioned, cleanliness is a must as well. TekTrol and Oxine are fantastic.
    Air flow is another big thing to watch as well. When you are having trouble getting your humidity raised, it is easy to close a vent and get the humidity up - but the best thing to do is add a second small pan of water to the bottom of the incubator or add a sponge in the main water pan. Just remember the sponge loves bacteria, so you have to change it often.
  • scratchscratch Mannsville, Oklahoma
    Thanks, I will give my incubator a going over. I did clean my bator before season with 50/50 bleach and water.
  • cockofthewalkcockofthewalk Mead, Oklahoma
    Hatching late is a sign of low temp. This spot checker from Smith is supposed to be accurate to like 1/10th degree. might want to check one out. I'm sure there are others but this one has been great for me.
    I use a hygrometer/thermometer from Smith in by machines. I have had not trouble with them accuracy wise. My machines are in a climate controlled building so maintaining the correct humidity and temp are relatively easy. I have found that humidity is the biggest factor in me getting good hatches. There is a really good article online from a university website that gives you a good list of poor hatching causes. If you break out your unhatched eggs, you can tell a lot about what happened while they were incubating. As Bill mentioned, cleanliness is a must as well. TekTrol and Oxine are fantastic.
    Air flow is another big thing to watch as well. When you are having trouble getting your humidity raised, it is easy to close a vent and get the humidity up - but the best thing to do is add a second small pan of water to the bottom of the incubator or add a sponge in the main water pan. Just remember the sponge loves bacteria, so you have to change it often.
    Scratch you can click on the Smith Poultry ad at the bottom of the page and it will take you right to their website for those products :))
  • I clean my hatcher every time I take a hatch out - I clean the incubator inside and out every three weeks. When I fill the water pan, I put a spoonful of bleach or tektrol in the water.
    I rotate my cleaners between bleach water, lysol and tektrol. If using bleach or lysol, you need to wait before restocking the machine until you no longer smell the chemicals. TekTrol and Oxine you can restock immediately.
  • cockofthewalkcockofthewalk Mead, Oklahoma
    Sounds to me that TekTrol and Oxine would be the first choice. I know through experience that bleach can be very harmful to incubating and hatching. :-j
  • Thanks for the cleaning tip.
  • Ernie, or anyone having this problem,
    Knowing when you are loosinbg the embryo will tell more than anything.
    Incubator issues based on temp will limit development.
    Bacterial issues start when the egg is layed. and get worse as the egg ages. Once bacteria is in the incubator it is in prime territory to reproduce.
    I sterilize my eggs with Oxine when I gather them, and before setting them, I sterilize the incubator tray then place the eggs, Spray the incubator walls, fan and other trays when I place the tray in the incubator.
    Bacteria type and count can kill the embryo from 8 days to 19 days based on what type of bacteria and how severe the problem. Bacteria infiltrate the egg shell and infect the embryo.
    Next thing to consider is Feed quality, you can almost rule this out if teh birds look and feel good, lay well and produce fertile eggs regularly.
    Breeder bird stress from parasites or illness can cause problems too but once again if there are no parasites on or in your birds and they look and feel good this is less likely to be your problem.
    I get very good hatch rates (90+ %) everyweek and I firmly believe this is due to keeping the incubator and hatcher sterile which starts with sterile eggs going in the machines.
  • edited March 2012
    Are you just having problem with your bb's and the rest of them are hatching good?
  • scratchscratch Mannsville, Oklahoma
    I am trying to narrow down the possabilities to this monster. Today was day 22 on seventeen eggs in the inc. I opened them up and found some undeveloped chicks that looked more like day 15-16 instead of day 21? Some still had heartbeat? I had made an automatic humidity tub that I think constricted the air flow. So I pulled it out and replaced with flatter pans of water. I also seen that the temp had dropped. 97*. Could be a waffer? I raised the temp alittle and placed a walmart hygrometer in the inc. Humidity is setting at 45% and the Temp is showing 100*. Thanks for the tipps men. I'll get this solved before it is over with. My males may be a little imature this season?
  • https://www.gqfmfg.com/pdf/Cabinet Model Instructions.pdf
    Some good info and charts here in pdf. look it over scratch. the same principals apply to all incs.
  • Sounds like you have been incubating with a temperature that was too low scratch. If you can get your incubator set at about 99-100 degrees with 50% humidity, you should be fine. Don't forget to up the humidity to 65-70% the last three days of your hatch.
  • Scratch,
    where are you located? if you are in or near OK. send or bring me some eggs I will send you anything that hatches back. That will narrow down some of the issues or at least eliminate the breeder birds and issues there. Sterilize the bator and eggs get your temps set right with good airflow and try again.
  • scratchscratch Mannsville, Oklahoma
    Thanks Carl but I will get it worked out. The only thing I want you to hatch out for me is some of those Female-Line Red Pyles that you have!LOL
  • scratchscratch Mannsville, Oklahoma
    I am also using the paper flats to hold my eggs. Do you think that may cause a problem with air circulation?
  • The female line Red Pyle are Daniel's but there will be plenty of them this year as well, I'm sure you can talk him out of a few when your ready.
    Now if your talking about the birds from Andy's show that were with the red pyles I already over 200 hatched from them but have been culling through pretty hard already down to about 150 but there are more coming with the pullet mating just getting set. I'll give you a trio of the good ones this fall if you would like.
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