Problems in hatching eggs? - Page 4 - OEGB Int'l Society

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Problems in hatching eggs?



  • I like to use 1/2 Oz per gallon. In the incubator water I use 1 Oz per gallon.
    To sterilize after each hatch I fog the hatcher using activated oxine with distilled water and citric acid crystals.
    So long as the eggs are fertile I can typically hatch them.
    I have had issues with humidity getting out of control on occasion but I use a automated mister on a humidity controller that doesn't always work when we have storms at hatch. Outside humidity gets me sometimes.
  • What % humidity do you hatch your eggs at Carl
  • Fred I think Carl went for his surgery yesterday and may not be on to answer.
    If you will go to the GQF site there is a page on incubating and hatching that will have a lot of good information on the subject. Also when you decide on the humnidity make sure you are talking the same language with folks, wet bulb or relative reading.
    Dry Bulb Temperature, oF.
    Rel. Humidity 99o 100o 101o 102o
    oF., Wet Bulb Temperatures
    45% 80.5 81.3 82.2 83.0
    50% 82.5 83.3 84.2 85.0
    55% 84.5 85.3 86.2 87.0
    60% 86.5 87.3 88.2 89.0
    65% 88.0 89.0 90.0 91.0
    70% 89.7 90.7 91.7 92.7

    Most people think the wet bulb reading in a hatcher or incubator is percent relative humidity. This is, of course, not true. Percent relative humidity is determined by using both dry bulb and wet bulb readings. For example, if the dry bulb reading is 100oF. and the wet bulb reading is 87.3oF., the relative humidity is 60 percent. Under normal conditions the relative humidity in an incubator or hatcher should always be 57 to 60 percent. The following table gives the percent relative humidity figures for various dry and wet bulb readings.
    Incubator and hatcher manufacturers offer various suggestions for dry and wet bulb settings. However, you may find by experimenting with various settings that the best way is to simply run the dry bulb at 100oF. and the wet bulb at 85 to 87oF. (Keep as near to 86oF. as possible.) Use these settings from the first day of incubation until hatching is complete.

    There will be no need to vary the humidity level from 86oF. if the hatching eggs were gathered and stored properly to prevent excessive moisture loss before setting, if the temperature in the machines was maintained at 100oF., if eggs were turned frequently, if sanitation was good, and if your ventilation was properly adjusted during incubating and hatching. Attempting to increase the wet bulb reading to 90 or 92oF. may decrease hatch if vents on the incubators and hatcher are closed too much. Closing the vents may increase the wet bulb reading and humidity inside the machines, but the developing embryos suffer from poor ventilation.
    I hope this info helps you on the understaning of the relative and wet bulb settings.
    I had my hatcher set at the 85 to 87 range on the wet bulb.
  • edited April 2015
    Here is some more information on the wet bulb;
    Old, dirty, too short, and wrong-sized wicks on wet bulb thermometers can cause erroneous readings. It is essential that wicks be kept in the best condition. You should thoroughly clean the wicks weekly and replace them with new ones after four to eight washings. Regular changing of wicks is often thought to be unnecessary; it may not be, but if the relatively small cost of new wicks is compared to the cost of low hatchability caused by incorrect wet bulb readings, the new wicks are justified every time.

    Inferior wicks tend to give higher readings than are actually present. In other words, the wet bulb tends to act more like the dry bulb. This is because the flow of water through the wick has been slowed. Therefore, if attempting to maintain an 86oF. wet bulb reading with faulty wicks, you may actually have an 84oF. wet bulb environment in the machine. The two degrees difference for an entire incubation and hatch period can noticeably reduce hatchability. Where possible and practical, use a dual set of wet and dry bulb instruments in each machine.

    Excessive moisture loss from the eggs during storage before setting can produce the same symptoms that low humidity in the machines produces. A sign of low humidity is sticky embryos during pipping and hatching that results in embryos not being able to turn themselves in the shell and complete the act of pipping and detaching themselves from the shell. Low humidity also results in short down on the chicks, malformed, malpositioned, weak, and small chicks. Low humidity contributes to (but is not wholly responsible for) spraddlers, star gazers, and those that cannot stand, walk, or orient themselves well enough to reach food and water.

    If several large, soft bodied, mushy chicks are observed that make it through pipping and hatching but are dead in the tray, it is a sign of high humidity. A bad odor usually accompanies this condition. The condition normally occurs only in incubators and hatchers that have forced spray humidity systems that force too much moisture into the machines. Rarely does humidity run too high in a machine that relies on evaporation from pans if you are using the recommended evaporative pans, if the temperature is correct, and if the machines are properly and amply ventilated with fresh air.

    If by restricting ventilation the humidity is made too high (92o to 94oF.) during the final stages of incubation, the embryos are moist and develop to the 19th, 20th, or 21st day of incubation, but die in the shell from suffocation. This suffocation results from improper ventilation rather than high humidity.
    Read more on all of this here;
  • Excellent information Bill!
  • Sometimes it is the small things that costs us the chicks!
    Thanks Barry
  • Wish I had a dealer that sold your feed. It really looks good. Down here in SC we have a lot of gamecock mixes but none that are really suitable for bantams. They are all very expensive too. I just get the mill to mix up my own ingredients and the birds really seem to like it.
  • I got a 70% hatch this weekend. Dropped my humidity from 60% to 38% and all was good. Thanks David Price
  • tracytracy AMARILLO,TX.
  • I've dropped my humidity, and my hatches are picking up. Still not there, but improving. I did some research, and found that if you are using one of the styrobators (I just don't have enough eggs to warrant firing up my old Farm Master) that you will drown your hatch at 50-55%. Air cells don't get big enough. My next batch is being incubated between 30-40% (although some recommend 20-30%) for first 18 days, then 65-70% for last 3. I'll let ya'll know how it works out.
  • Fred.
    I'm glad hear David was able to help you out.
    Every location and incubator vary a vit. I have my best luck incubating around 30 and hatch around 65
  • Thanks for all the info ya'll provide. It really is of great benefit.
  • Carl, I saw that post .Thought you set 30 eggs and get 65 chicks.
  • Lonnie ,that"s only in Belgians. Get two chicks from each egg. Ones I don't sit ,I throw over the fence.Guess What.Three weeks later the chicks come running back through the fence.
  • Lol, everyone else on here is making this to complicated.
  • Carl, I saw that post .Thought you set 30 eggs and get 65 chicks.
    I was referring to humidity
  • What's a star gazer? If it's a chick that likes to flip over on his back and figure out how to die...I had a couple of them...

    About 1/3 of my eggs that pipped this weekend ended up with chick stuck in shell, maybe got half way around the egg but couldn't finish. And there is water running out the back of the hatcher (GQF).
  • Your humidity could be too high during the first 18 days or you could have a weak strain. Female line BB Reds have trouble hatching like that.
  • Wow, I am a new member and I am overwhelmed. Everyone seems to be large volume breeders. So don't laugh, I am the proud owner of 2 pullets and a 2 yr old rooster given to me about 5 months ago when I was swapping some of my heritage hens and my friend heard me say how 'cute' his OEGBs where. Its no surprise how fast they became my favorites out of my flock. My young pullets started laying around January. So I scooped up 5 little eggs and put them under another freebee hen who had gone broody and last Thursday surprise all 5 hatched. So my adventure with these little beauties has begun. I just learned than the one grey one is a "self blue" by doing some reading and searching images in the net. My thing is, I tend to allow my hens to do the work of hatching. In the past, with other breeds I found it the most successful way for my very small operation. Is there anyone else out there that started out with such pitiful beginnings. I am in New Mexico (Albuquerque) and as of yet, I have not found enthusiast in my area. Or maybe I just do not know where to look.
  • Oma, Welcome to the sight. Every journey begins with the first step. Most of us started small and made this hobby what ever we want it to be for us. For many it is the showing, for some it is the fellowship of the great people in this hobby, and for some it is all about the love of poultry. You can be as small or as large an operation as you want it to be. Make it fun for you and not become a job but a hobby. There are alot of good folks on here that are willing to answer any question you may have and share what they have learned over the years.
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