Problems in hatching eggs? - Page 3 - OEGB Int'l Society

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Problems in hatching eggs?

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  • Look out guys! Ernie has a whole flock of show birds coming at you! Nice work man, they look great! Now the work begins. There is nothing more exciting in the business than to see these little critters looking good like that!
    You know what they say about the really good ones look different, just look at that little dude standing out front posing for you! Sweet Man Sweet!
  • Here's my problem. I wind up with a lot of chicks fully formed, dead in the egg, never pipped. Different varieties of OEGB. Never pipped. Its only happening with my OEGB. I hatch my sebrights right along with them, no problems. It's driving me crazy.

    I get a few to hatch, but I'm doing something wrong. Anyone have any ideas? It seems the chicks die right about day 18 or so.
  • I heard several people today say they were having problems hatching
  • I am one that is having a horrible time. I have called everyone I know and asked and done as they say. No better at all, chicks develope in the egg and die before they hatch. I am thinking this years show season is in the trash
  • tracytracy AMARILLO,TX.
    SOMETIMES I HAVE SEEN TEMPS VARY 2 TO 3 DEGREES FROM THE TOP TO THE BOTTOM OF SOME GQF,S.
  • lotslesslotsless Albany Oregon
    Sorry to hear that Fred Are you using the same bator you did last year? and did you get good hatches from it then? don't give up. I
    guess at last resort you could let some hens set......I Have 28 chicks that hatched last week and putting another couple dozen in incubator tomorrow...I have a old Roll-x that has served me well and i got it used over 20 years ago...Knock on wood its still doing a good job .
  • Ok I have some eggs that don't fully developed but are still alive and then they usually die on the 20th day.. when I say don't fully developed is the bottom of the eggs that's placed in the egg trays is clear.. now does anyone have had this problem before and know what the problem is and how to fix it.. I'm getting to the point I just want to quit breeding.
  • Hi Josh,
    If you are losing a lot of chicks on the 20th day, then you have an incubation problem. Do you have the temps at 100 degrees for the first 18 days, is humidity at about 50% for the first 18 days, and are the eggs turned regularly? If they are set in egg positioners, do you lay them on their sides for the last three days and increase humidity to about 65%?
    If your humidity is too low for the first 18 days, the chick will lose too much water and have difficulty hatching. There are a lot of other factors to consider but these are the first to come to my mind.
  • Yes my Temps are 100.5 and 48 to 50% humidity and I have a model 20 humidaire that I use and it has a automatic turner that works.... most of my problems are the eggs aren't fully developing right at the bottom of the egg.. I do have some that hatch fine... I keep my eggs in the incubator until I see them start pipping then I place them in the hatcher
  • Going to try a lower humidity
  • Just little info. I was having a little problem with hatching which most every body does from time to time, I was running my bator at 54% humity and the temp at 99.9t0 100 deg. and my hatcher at 58 to 60 % and was having a problemhatching thdy were piping but not finishing up hatching so i picked some out. all we healthy after picking them out and never lost a bird but this is not right. so I left the bator and made no changes but to the hatcher i raised the Humidty to 65 to 66 now they are coming out like pop corn . Every bodies locationt and nd inviorment is different so what works for me may not work for you it is trial and error. but one thing i learned that will work for every body is write it all down and refer to year after year
  • I am hearing a lot about poor hatches this year from everyone. poor hatches can be narrowed down to a few causes. Temperature, Humidity, air flow(exchange), bacteria, genetics in the breeder stock and diet and care of the brood stock. Let's rule out the breeder management and genetic piece and discuss the others. High temps usually result in early mortality. If not severely high they may go to the end and pip as early as the 18th day and make it out. Low temperatures will result in mortality at different stages and those that make it to the end will pip late and slow coming out. In circulated air bators I like it 100 to 100.5. In still air temps should be abvout 102.5 at the top of the egg and should not exceed 103. Uneven temperatures in a cabinet model bator at different levels is an indication of air flow and circulation problem. If you have your vents closed to raise humity you may see this. By opening vents you should get the circulation and se only a fraction of a degree difference from top to bottom. Opening these vents will effect humidity and to adjust up add more water surface. To lower reduce water surface. In other words use the vents for circulation and water pan for humidity. Water evaporates from the surface so does not matter how much water you have in there. It is the exposed water surface that dictates humidity. Too high humidity usually results in chicks drowning in egg at hatching time. Air cell is too small and they will drown before even pipping. Low humidity usually is indicated by chicks pipping but not coming out. This is because not enough moisture in the egg at hatching time will result in chicks drying out to fast and sticking to shell and cannot work their way around and out. AE hatching time the air cell should be somewhere between 1/4 to 1/3 of the egg size. If your problem is bacterial then disinfecting regularly with oxine will help. It is common to see bacteria in the bator when you incubate and hatch in the same incubator but with sanitary practices it is very possible. Once a week I pit oxine in humidity pan for a mild fumigation. I will also regularly spray and wipe incubator every couple hatches with an ounce of oxine to a gallon of water. You can also dip eggs before setting in a solution of oxine and water. All you old pros know of of this so I hope this helps you less experienced fanciers to improve your hatches. The important thing is to start incubating as close to ideal conditions as you can and adjust by what the hatch or not hatch tells you. Good luck guys I don't know it all but what I do share with you is meant to help you guys. .
  • Great information Kdog!
  • Question about oxine. I just received it today. I hadn't heard of it until this site. I have about 50 eggs in the incubator that were set over the last 3 weeks. I cleaned it with bleach solution last Sunday ( was shocked at the filth). Would it be wise to spray the eggs already set with oxine? What about spraying down the inside of the incubator with oxine?
  • edited April 2015
    If you cleaned with bleach last Sunday you probably are OK and don't need to spray incubator until you hatch a batch off. Put a couple tablespoons of the oxine in your water reservoir and just mildly fumigate. Spraying eggs I would think would not hurt them however two things will occur. As it evaporates from the egg it would be like you sweating. The liquid would carry away some heat and eggs would experience a slight drop in temperature just as sweating cools you down. You will also see a slight rise in humidity from this. Both are very temporary changes for a short term and would not likely effect the hatch. Carl can tell you better onthe use of Oxine than I could. He has been using it a long time. We may not see him on here for a few days though as he is going under the knife this week for shoulder and rotator cup surgery.
  • Thanks I will try it out.
  • Thank you for sharing your expertise with us Kjundog. It is really appreciated.
  • Question about oxine. I have about 50 eggs in the incubator that were set over the last 3 weeks. Would it be wise to spray the eggs already set with oxine? What about spraying down the inside of the incubator with oxine?
    I use oxide in my water for the incubator and hatcher. I spray the eggs daily as I collect them, as I place them in the incubator tray I spray the tray egg holder and eggs. After placing the eggs in the incubator I spray the other eggs already in the incubator and incubator walls.
    Ve r y seldom do I have trouble with this.
  • I think humidity is the biggest culprit if you know the birds are healthy, genetically sound and everything is kept clean.
    During the rain 2 weeks ago, I had to move all my water out of my machines because I could not keep the humidity levels where I like them to be. During that week, I hatched a set of eggs and 60% had drowned in the egg. I feel this was a direct result of not getting the water out fast enough and the humidity being too high from day 15-19. I hatched a second set of eggs and there were several that didn't hatch, but I would say 10% drowned. I crack open every egg that does not hatch so I can have a better idea of what went wrong.

    I finished a hatch yesterday 15 of 18 eggs of mine hatched and only 3 of 8 hatched of a friends. All were cleaned and put in the same incubator, same tray on the same day. My hatch was better. Why? I am thinking genetics. My friend has had the same trouble hatching from this pen of birds, and that is why he asked me to try. I had no better luck.
  • Question about oxine. I have about 50 eggs in the incubator that were set over the last 3 weeks. Would it be wise to spray the eggs already set with oxine? What about spraying down the inside of the incubator with oxine?


    I use oxide in my water for the incubator and hatcher. I spray the eggs daily as I collect them, as I place them in the incubator tray I spray the tray egg holder and eggs. After placing the eggs in the incubator I spray the other eggs already in the incubator and incubator walls.
    Ve r y seldom do I have trouble with this.
    What ratio do you use for this?
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