Show prep and conditioning - OEGB Int'l Society

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Show prep and conditioning

edited July 2014 in User Suggestions
I have been a member of this site since early to mid 2012. I have yet to take birds to a show, but intend to.
As someone that has not gotten birds ready for a show, there is very little information on this site in regards to what is involved in getting ready for a show.
There is a lot of general info on how to take care of them like clean water good feed and having good birds.
I have conditioned and trained for show many meat goats and know there is more involved than just feed water and genetics.
I know each of you have things you do that you don't want your compition to know about. I understand you are never going to give that info out to the public and I'm not asking you to.
What basic things I need to do to get my birds ready to show?


  • edited July 2014
    Cooped individual at least 3 months before show. Sooner would be better as it can take 16 weeks for a feather to be fully replaced and finished. Clean living quarters and good feed and water and parasite control. Handle birds often to get them tame. A few days before the show clean them up, trim nails and beaks and check between toes for stubble. It is rare in Old English but does exist. Take care to not undo anything you have accomplished when hauling them. Good boxes with smooth sides are good and don't have to be anything fancy. Upon arrival, coop birds in and wipe them down and put finishing touches that you desire. These are the very basics.
  • nboonnboon Princeton Texas
    What is stubble
  • Stubble is feather stubs that grow on the shanks and between toes of a clean legged breed. Can be obvious or sometimes you must look real good between toes to see it. It is a DQ on clean legged breeds. Very common in Wyandottes and Plymouth rocks and seen them on Japs also and not totally unheard of on pld English. They can pop out over night on a freshly washed clean leg.
  • poor conditioning will knock you out of the running in a heart beat, make the judge work for his money!!lol
  • When Otis, Keith, and Tater go to a show they definitely make the judges work for their money. I can guarantee you that you won't knock their birds out of contention because of poor condition. They show some of the best conditioned birds that I've ever handled.
  • If you do not think conditioning makes a diffrence look down champion row.All the class champions have one thing in common. Well conditioned fit and ready.
  • My conditioning feed is a 50/50 mix of a 22% breeder pellet and Lonestar Rambo Rooster coated with red cell and kickin chicken.
  • nboonnboon Princeton Texas
    Mine is big v game cock maintainece feed and wendlands sweet feed 50 50
  • Boon, I bought some gamecock maintenance and didn't like it. They did not have the peas, sunflower or popcorn in it and had way too much whole corn. I preferr the gamecock conditioner. Of course it ain't called Rambo Rooster anymore. They changed the name to Poultry Conditioner 1274 to get away from that gamecock image.
  • Where do u buy the feed?
  • edited July 2014
    From my local Lonestar feed dealer. I know Texas gotta have some feed stores that handle Lonestar since they are a Texas base company. Not sure where you are bickford. If I think about it, I will post a picture of this feed for you. If you use this you don't need the sweet feed.It has molasses already in there. By mixing it with the 22% pellet your birds are getting a 19% protein diet. The kickin chicken is available at Tractor supply. It has the omega3 in it and really puts the feather and shine on them.
  • Here it is.

    1024 x 768 - 110K
  • I'm up in maine. il ask my local TSC. and might run out to winthrope to RMT farm supplies or knights. to see if they have it. as of now i only have 6 birds so my grain ain't to bad. by fall/early winter i plain to have 20 er so between wheatons n BBREDS. so lets hope i can get a deal on it!!
  • Wayne:
    Thanks for the info, we can always depend on you to share your knowledge.
  • I got a free sample of kickin chicken at my local farm & home store but didn't really like it. When it comes to adding oil to grain it's always been cod liver oil for me. Among other things it stimulates a birds appetite which will increase their metabolism, but it also gives a shine to the feathers, alternate the fish oil everyday with red cell, one day fish oil the next day red cell. I do this year round BUT don't over do the oil during the warmer months. Conditioning isn't a 3 or 4 or 5 or even 6 week thing, it's 365 days a year, from shell to show.
  • AMEN on that!!!
  • So went to town. they have gamebird conditioner and gamebird/showbird. as well as the kicken shicken bottle and some other stuff thatis ment for show birds.
  • Kaleb, You are most likely on the right road with those feeds. Just keep in mind these are games and a hard finish both plumage and body is desired. The birds body should feel like a piece of cork when you squeeze, I feel the this cannot be accomplished by pellets or crumbles alone. Quality grains in the diet mixed with a good quality pellet or crumble along with excercize will help get you there. THe more grain in a bird's diet the tighter the plumage and harder the finish. You will get many opinions on this and some will say no grains in the summer heat as they are harder to digest and produce body heat. Keep trying things and see what works for you and your situation. For good plumage not enough can be said about the importance of diet during the molt. Keep in mind, water, protein, fibre and sulpher are pretty much what makes up the feather. An excellent source of all these things is cabbage leaves. Feeding some of it during the molt is very beneficial.
  • So i should try this feed? The store onnly carries tr 5lb bags and id go threw that in a few days.
  • So i should try this feed? The store onnly carries tr 5lb bags and id go threw that in a few days.
    Conditioning and feeding for show is different than feeding for breeding. If you are getting a few singled out, and ready for the show season then a conditioning ration would be in order, if you are getting them set for breeding season or maintenance till breeding season it would be a bit different.
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